The Ottoman Empire of Turkey has all the time fascinated the grasp couturier, JJ Valaya. On the 2012 Wills India Vogue Week, the designer confirmed his Azrak assortment, which was impressed by the Ottoman Empire and his go to to Turkey beckoned JJ Valaya to craft the gathering. Maybe the Ottoman architectural and craftsmanship evoked nostalgia for the designer as he’s mainly from the royal metropolis of Jodhpur, Rajasthan. JJ Valaya’s Azrak assortment featured contrasting hues from ivory and blacks to velvet maroons and gold tones. It was a grand finale assortment, which was not solely synonymous to the Indian weddings however there was an articulate visible narrative of the Ottoman Empire that we witnessed in his assortment.
Eight years later, got here one other assortment, which appeared richer in hues and had only a little or no whiff or brush of minimalism. This assortment was additionally impressed by the Ottoman Empire however extra ornate and vibrant. This assortment titled, Bursa The Ottoman Saga, was proven on a digital format on the ongoing FDCI India Couture Week 2020. While the supply of inspiration was the identical, the Bursa assortment outfits have been utterly completely different from Azrak. BURSA was undoubtedly extra maximalist and elaborate. Soaked in vivid hues with just a few pastel numbers, this assortment was so Valaya due to wealthy hues, regal impact, and a break from minimalist development. After JJ Valaya served us entrée along with his Tabriz assortment that was impressed by mystical tradition and humanities of Persia, the designer introduced the primary course to us with Bursa. In different phrases, he confirmed his journey from Persia into the alleys of Bursa. Whereas Tabriz was a extra numerous assortment by way of the kind of outfits, Bursa was restricted however extra resplendent. The gathering, which was impressed by the traditional metropolis of Bursa – the founding capital of the Ottoman Empire and the birthplace of Ottoman structure, solely featured three key silhouettes of the Indian weddings. Sure, the gathering was distinctive as a result of it solely featured sarees, lehengas, and sherwanis. The gathering has 48 items for women and men.
The researched inspiration included the well-known Ottoman silks and nomadic kilims of the interval. The Ottoman miniatures, often known as ‘Taswir’, that are painted for example manuscripts or utilized in devoted albums accentuated this yr’s assortment. ‘Tezhip’ (ornamenting with gold) was additionally pervasive on this yr’s assortment. As acknowledged within the assortment be aware, the label’s discoveries for this season have been additionally the ‘Topkapi’ palace jewels – Topkapi palace has discovered relevance in JJ Valaya’s earlier assortment too. Aside from that, particulars of Turkish armour, particularly the quills used then, and a medley of Turkish flora, fauna, and fruits additionally enhanced Bursa assortment. The bridal assortment additionally mirrored on the burnished metallic method and golds, which gave the outfits an vintage aesthetic. Swarovski crystals, silk threads, beads, pearls, and zardozi methods and gildings have been additionally part of the gathering.
The gathering had attractive items and a few outfits just like the Chevron sarees from the Chevron assortment have been additionally included in Bursa assortment. There have been some outfits from his assortment similar to the mix of the gray lightweight embroidered saree and burgundy puffed sleeved shirt, ombré-embroidered lehenga, and mustard printed saree, which we actually liked. Aside from that hand-painted buttons on sherwanis and the nature-inspired patterns completely gained us. We liked the printed safas too though the safas weren’t part of the gathering. A particular point out must be given to Archana Aggarwal, who’s the jewelry associate for 2020 FDCI ICW. She crafted timeless gemstone jewelry that included necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, and hair and hand equipment, which enhanced the regal impact.
JJ Valaya’s assortment was not solely gorgeous but in addition diligent. This assortment is without doubt one of the strongest collections of Valaya’s, true to his model’s philosophy and aesthetics, well-balanced, and definitely for discerning potential grooms and brides, who again maximalist sensibility.
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