Bhanu Athaiya, the costume designer of the foremost movies and the one Indian designer, who received an Oscar for the costumes, handed away in Mumbai on the age of 91. She received an Oscar in 1983 for Richard Attenborough’s Gandhi. Other than Oscars, Bhanu Athaiya additionally received two Nationwide Movie Awards in 1991 and 2002. Bhanu Athaiya was among the many prime and most sought-after costume designers of Hindi cinema. She designed costumes for a variety of superhit and critically-acclaimed movies similar to Kagaz Ke Phool, Waqt, Information, Teesri Manzil, Chaudhvin Ka Chand, Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam, Razia Sultan, Agneepath, Karz, Satyam Shivam Sundaram, Brahmachari, and Ajooba amongst others. She additionally did costumes for the present-day cinema. Bhanu additionally designed costumes for motion pictures like Swades and Lagaan.
Aamir Khan, who was the protagonist in Lagaan, took to his Twitter feed to share a condolence message for the veteran costume designer, ‘Bhanuji was a kind of movie individuals who superbly mixed correct analysis and cinematic aptitude to carry to life the director’s imaginative and prescient. You’ll be missed Bhanuji. My heartfelt condolences to the household.’ Together with her meticulous detailing in costumes and accuracy like Aamir Khan talked about, Bhanu Athiya impressed main costume designers of the current instances. Style and costume designer, Neeta Lulla additionally supplied condolence to Bhanu Athaiya by way of her Instagram story. Actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas additionally wrote on her Instagram story, ‘RIP Bhanu Athaiya. What a tremendous physique of labor – Oscar successful costume designer for Gandhi, the inventor of the Mumtaz saree… an inspiration to so many younger designers. Her legacy will stay on ceaselessly. My condolences to the household.’
Courtesy: Aamir Khan Productions
Bhanu Athaiya, additionally launched her guide, The Artwork of Costume Design , which was printed by Harper Collins in March 2010. Her guide has some fascinating information and experiences penned by late Bhanu Athaiya. As an illustration, she wrote about Guru Dutt, the cult determine within the Indian cinema between the 1950s-60s, that how he was a delicate and creative particular person, who made thought-provoking movies. Elaborating on her expertise of working with him, the late designer talked about that she translated his pondering into evocative costumes for his main girls. Together with her autobiographical guide which had a foreword written by Richard Attenborough, Bhanu Athaiya additionally highlighted on a few of the unforgettable scenes of the Indian cinema that she had labored on. She talked about a scene the place the groom sees the bride’s face for the primary time and is taken by her magnificence. On this scene, she crafted Waheeda Rehman’s internet dupatta, which helped hold her face lined however was seen by the digital camera. This added to the ‘mysterious anticipation,’ the late costume designer talked about in her guide.
Bhanu Athaiya’s costume designing journey on the earth of cinema has been illustrious and listed here are a few of the well-known costumes that she designed.
Courtesy: R. Ok. Movies
Zeenat Aman’s Half-Saree
Bhanu Athaiya was a trendsetter and made some very daring outfits in these instances too when main actresses dressed conservatively on-screen. In Satyam Shivam Sundaram, Zeenat Aman performed one of the crucial de-glam roles, the actress who with Parveen Babi have been the glamorous girls of the 70s cinema. Zeenat Aman’s wardrobe for this movie was dipped in understated hues however her outfits have been positively risqué for these instances. One such ensemble that raised many eyebrows was her half or mini saree. The costume designer impressed Zeenat Aman to put on a clear white saree sans the shirt. The saree featured a crimson piping border and it was a revealing saree that was brief in size too. Zeenat Aman’s saree bought considered in a provocative gentle however Raj Kapoor, the producer, defended his alternative by stating that the saree suited her character within the film, which was a few poverty-stricken woman.
Courtesy: Saregama Music
Helen’s Spanish Costume
Helen’s dance strikes have been versatile and energetic and she or he infused plenty of vivaciousness to the songs. And late Bhanu Athaiya has been behind her many iconic costumes. In an interview to IANS , Bhanu Athaiya revealed that she (Helen) would put on becoming bodices to point out off her slim waistline and her lengthy limbs can be draped in stockings, and her arms have been lined with lengthy gloves. Talking about Helen, she additionally informed IANS that the Spanish costume for the tune, O Haseena Zulfonwali was her favorite. The costume was mermaid-cut and accentuated by black-hued tulle ruffles and glittering pink fitted bodice that was stored flared on the hem. The assertion rose adorned on her internet black-toned veil enhanced the impact and with this the legendary costume designer redefined glamour.
Courtesy: Red Chillies Entertainment
Vyjayanthimala’s Amrapali Costume
Within the period-drama movie Amrapali, Vyjayanthimala’s dance numbers mesmerised the movie viewers. Her costumes have been designed by none aside from Bhanu Athaiya. And with Vyjayanthimala’s bikini prime and draped bottoms, Bhanu Athaiya supplied a signature period-drama costume, which has been integrated in a variety of interval drama motion pictures by completely different actresses in numerous hues. For instance, Deepika Padukone additionally donned an Amrapali-inspired costume for a tune, Dhoom Taana in her debut movie, Om Shanti Om. Coming again to Vyjayanthimala’s costume (the unique one), her outfits signified sensuality and vulnerability. It’s among the many costumes that outlined the Indian cinema.
Courtesy: Everett Collection
The Gandhi Film Costumes
As aforementioned, with Richard Attenborough’s film Gandhi, Bhanu Athaiya received an Oscar. Simi Garewal (a prolific actress) scheduled a gathering of Bhanu Athaiya with Richard Attenborough for the costume designing venture for his main, Gandhi. Bhanu Athaiya dealt with the Indian costumes for the movie and this film concerned intensive analysis for the costume designer. She needed to go to museums and libraries in Delhi to be taught extra about Gandhi and the sensibility of Indian residents from a dressing up perspective. Other than designing Gandhi’s costume, the costume designer’s job was additionally to design the costumes for different characters and crowd proven within the movie . She had assistants to assist her out. This Ben Kingsley-starrer movie was not solely lauded by the critics and received eight Oscars but additionally created a marketplace for the Nehru Jacket and khadi handspun outfits, the material that symbolised freedom motion.
Courtesy: Shemaroo Filmi Gaane
Mumtaz’s Costume Saree
Mumtaz’s dress-saree within the film, Brahmachari was iconic, trendy, and is used as a template by designers even in the present day, who wish to create one thing between a costume and saree. This fusion outfit was created by Bhanu Athaiya again in 1968 and popularised by Mumtaz. In the event you YouTube a bit, you will discover dozens of instructional movies on the best way to ace this saree look. This memorable costume was designed for the tune, Aaj Kal Tere Mere Pyaar Ke Charche and this saree was created to supply ease of motion whereas dancing. This orange-hued costume saree could possibly be zipped. It was a stitched and draped saree and in her guide, Bhanu Athaiya talked about , ‘It was a departure from the everyday Indian sari.’ Bhanu Athaiya crafted this saree with a layered impact to present Mumtaz, freedom of motion.
Bhanu Athaiya additionally went de-glam while designing for Shah Rukh Khan in Swades and Aamir Khan in Lagaan. The designer, who was born in Kolhapur, Maharashtra and labored in over 100 movies, can be missed. RIP, Bhanu Athaiya!
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